You see the citadel before you understand the rest of Aleppo. It sits above the old quarters, and most walks start or end with a look at those walls.
Below the walls
Down below, the stone streets and what remains of the old souq take more time than a viewpoint. Some stretches are rebuilt, some are not. We do not pretend otherwise. The point is to walk what is open and hear how the city used to trade.
The 5-day programme spends two nights in Aleppo, which is enough for an unhurried citadel visit and a second walk that is not a rush back to the bus.
If you like food more than monuments, say so. Aleppo’s kitchens are a reason people remember the city after the citadel photos fade.